Ooty - History

|| In Pursuit of the Past || One Man's Ooty || Golf ( 100 years origin) ||

|| The Government Gardens, Horticultural Societies ||

It was the accident discovery of a letter that led Christoper penn to reclaim his fascinating ancestral past. Rummaging in the back of a writing bureau in his surrey home three years ago, he discovered a letter that had got wedged in the shelving. It was written to his father, Who had died twelve years earlier, by a Patricia Manders. The letter Identified her as his father’s cousin. Christoper had never heared of the lady, but that wasn’t surprising. His father never spoke about his side of the family to his children.“ It’s almost as if they never existed,” says Christoper. “I suspect this was because my grandfather, Harold Penn, had….ummm….a somewhat colourful life.

Voyage of Discovery

The letter launched his on a voyage of discovery. He wrote to Manders and, a few days latter, received a phone call from her with the invitation: “why don’t you come and visit me in Weston-Super-Mare?” It was when he met Manders that he discovered that his great grandfather – Albert Thomas Watson Penn (1849-1924) – was a leading and extremely accomplished photographer based in Ootacamund. A second meeting with Manders, and two other cousins, produced an obituary of Albert Penn that was published in the South India Observer.

The information came in trickles. A visit to a London antiquarian turned up a first edition of Edgar Thurston’s “Castes and Tribes of South India”, which carried Penn’s pictures on the Todas, Badagas and Kurumbas. More pictures emerged when Christopher located another first edition of Frederick Price’s “Ootacumund: A History” . Christopher paid ‘obscene’ sums for books, but Albert Penn was beginning to acquire a certain form and character.

“ By then, I was bitten by the bug. I simply had to know more,” say Christopher, a retired high ranking executive with Pearson Plc, the publishing group that owns Penguin among other interests. In 2002, Christopher set out from England to Ooty with his wife Mary and two relatives. He knew that Albert Penn was buried at Coonoor’s Tiger Hill cemetery, but it was shuffling through the church records at Ooty’s St. Stephen’s which revealed he was married there in 1870 to a woman from Eagan family, which owned an emporium and a hotel. Albert had come to India about five or six years earlier as a young lad of 16 and set up his business as a photographer in Ooty. In the early years, he would move to the winter months (“where work was more plentiful,” reckons Christopher), but it was in Ooty where he established his reputation as a leading photographer shooting people, landscapes and events such as weddings or the annual meet of the Ootacumund Hunt.

He left a record of the local tribes, particularly the Todas. “What distinguishes his portraits from other is the sympathy and respect with which he appears to hold the sitter. They are careful compositions and not simply ethnographic studies,” observes Christopher. An extraordinary collection of pictures of children was published by the missionary Amy Carmichael in her book “Lotus Buds” in 1909. Albert traveled from Ooty to Tirunelveli for the project commissioned by Carmichael, who noted that the pictures are “much better than we dared to except” even though the photographer was more accustomed to the dignified ways of mountains than to the extremely restless habit of children; and he never could understand why they would not sit for him as the mountains sat, and let him focus on them comfortably.”

Christopher is interested when told that Amy Carmichael was a passionate environmentalist even before the terms was invented and that the records of wildlife sighting kept by her Dohnavur Trust formed the body of material that helped convert the forests at kalakkad in to a sanctuary to preserve the lion-tailed macaque. “Is there a picture of her?” He asks. “I wonder why he traveled so many miles, taking with him the bulky photographic equipment of the time, for this assignment.”

Back in India to visit Ooty and Chennai for a third time, Christopher is aware that information related to his project can turn up most unexpectedly. For instance, he found that great grandfather’s Cranley cottage and the adjacent building which housed his “Photographic Gallery” still exist and are now used as the office of a business family. The Ootacumund Club, of which Albert was the ‘court photographer’ hadn’t heard of him. But Christopher found two signed photographer up on the walls after he was allowed to walk around and have a ‘dekko’.

Flamboyant Character
Inevitably, researching great grandfather threw up facts about grandfather Harold - the man who Christopher’s father was too embarrassed to speak about. A flamboyant character, Harold was awarded the distinguished Conduct Medal for the cavalry charge at Omdurman in Sudan and served in the 21th Hussars (renamed the Lancers) in India. He won a small fortune in the Calcutta Derby, but died in penury after a messy divorce and a troubled life.

The information Christopher has collected led him to build a family tree one hundred and twenty one direct descendants of Albert Penn survive and Christopher invited them all to his Surrey home for a party. “Only fifty eight were able to come. But it was fun,” he says. His aim is to research his great grandfather’s life and create a comprehensive catalogue of his work. Dose he plan to spin this out in to a book? “Well, I am not sure I have enough material on it yet,” he says. “But I am not ruling it out.”

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